Fairylands Trails–Bryce Canyon National Park

Hoodoos, Ridiculous Shoes and Beauty All Around

“Stepping out onto any lookout, you are invited to connect with an amazing example of some of the most unusual terrain on this planet, making you feel as though you are stepping foot on the edge of another world.”

― Stefanie Payne, A Year in the National Parks: The Greatest American Road Trip

Do we grow more fearful as we get older? 

Do you remember being carefree, without fear, pushing the adrenaline boundaries when you were younger, and do you look back now and think, no freaking way would I do that? 

I know I pushed the limits when I was younger, at least from my parents’ point of view. I was always getting too close to the ledge, climbing too high in trees, and not afraid to jump off of anything. 

But as I stood along an outskirt of the Fairylands Trail in Bryce Canyon National Park staring down into the canyon, a tremendous fear of heights started to kick in. I’ve never been afraid of heights, but as I stood along a very narrow outskirt from the trail with the opportunity to see straight down onto the hoodoos, I found myself wondering if I could bootscoot my way over. Should I crawl? Should I skip it altogether? 

I only had one day in Bryce Canyon before I was to head to Zion National Park, and I honestly hadn’t been sure how to spend my time in the two Utah parks. I opted for more time in Zion since it offered more trails and greater diversity of terrain. I had come across the Fairylands Trail as highly recommended (rated as strenuous) with stunning scenery in 360 degrees views.  The Fairylands Trail is just under eight miles around the loop, and covers just over 2,300 feet in elevation.  I definitely should have done the math on that one prior to the start. 

Not unlike my descent to the bottom of the Grand Canyon, I was properly outfitted with several PB&J sandwiches, a ton of water, and goldfish crackers because why not? 

One change to the hiking attire was a seriously questionable shoe selection. I had totally blown all blisters on my feet and could not get shoes on my feet without others thinking I was in distress, so I hobbled my way to an outfitters store and bought Merrell velco sandals the day before.  There was literally no other option. Socks were coming halfway up my calf and each Merrell sandal was strapped onto a foot. 

As I was making my way to the start of the trail, a park ranger rode by on his bike and inquired about my plans for the day (it was also 1000 degrees–think Utah in July!). I knew he had noticed my lack of proper shoes (although slung over my shoulder and attached to my backpack), and wanted to make sure I wasn’t heading into anything too stupid.  He said he had two words for me: Duct tape.  First, what? And second, who knew? Apparently, if applied over a hot spot but not yet popped blister, duct tape is great in preventing them from actually popping.  Unfortunately, I was out of luck but good to know!  After sharing more tips that would have been FANTASTIC two days earlier, he was on his merry way. 

The Fairylands Trail is deceptive in that it is easy to get lost in the hoodoos, and while I had a map of the trail, I didn’t actually know where I was along the route. I am sure if I had really looked at the map and the scenery around me, I would have figured it out.  Either way, lost in the hoodoos. I thought I had taken a million pictures earlier while on the quest to get to the bottom of the Grand Canyon, but nothing compared to the Fairylands Trail. I was taking pictures every few seconds. While the hoodoos didn’t look too differently from one another at a distance, each had its own distinctive shape, and depending on what time of day you are making your quest around the loop, the light just created a total palette of brown, orange, and red. 

It was also incredibly hot (but dry!). I tried to pace myself on the water since I hadn’t seen a soul over the first few miles.  I took multiple selfies, each looking more ridiculous than the previous but I needed to find one that MIGHT work for my profile picture (and, WINNER!!!) 

While there was quite a bit of elevation change over the 8 miles, it was less noticeable because the trail was undulating–down and up, down and up.  

I also didn’t mind the silence. It was as if the hoodoos had their own song, and with every turn, I was turning into a new chorus. Normally, I might start to rethink my decision making if I had gone close to six miles without seeing single other human, but I really didn’t re-think or over-think it. The trail was magnificent.  When I got to about the six-mile mark, I saw the opportunity to venture out a little, slightly off-trail, so I could really stare down over the ledge.  It was only then I experienced that fear of heights feeling.  I edged forward, very slowly, in the hopes that the slower approach would start to eat away at the fear.  Definitely not. So, I sat down and slid close to the edge. My feet were dangling, and again, I had that top-of-the-world feeling. I felt strong. I felt brave. I felt very empowered. 

Even my ridiculous shoe situation couldn’t take away that feeling. I munched on PB&J #28 of the trip and just embraced it, feeling like a queen.  Ha! But I still had about two miles uphill to go, with a ridiculous shoe situation.  

It was only AFTER reading other reviews of the hike that I noticed more reviewers said to take the trail counterclockwise. Woof. I went clockwise; however, I am not sure I would have done it differently. I saw two humans in total, and I was constantly surrounded by the beauty of the hoodoos.  

I am not sure my fear of heights has decreased at all, and who knows how or why it started, but as I have learned, maybe it makes me more appreciative for all that is below.  If I hadn’t been scooting sideways on my butt across the side trail, I probably would have taken fewer pictures and noticed less (gotta find the positive).  

Me and my ridiculous shoe situation made it back to the car, Merrells came off, flip flops were put on, and I made my way to Zion National Park.  However, I highly recommend this as a stop on the itinerary. I wish I had even more time to explore more trails and more beauty of the park. But, my feet needed to recover for the adventures that lie ahead. 

Take aways: have what you consider to be enough water and then double it; the higher elevation is no joke. Even if you are seriously fit, you’ll feel it in the lungs!!; Try to avoid ridiculous shoe situations and use duct tape IN ADVANCE; stay on trail (the summers are known for snakes) and it is very easy to THINK you are on the trail when you are actually not because the trail is less distinctive; definitely let someone know you are there and when and where you started, if you are heading out solo.